A semi-empirical model is developed for prediction of wave heights pdf in shallow waters. It assumes that a single Weibull distribution holds both in shoaling waters and in the surf zone. Pdf parameters have been linked to water depth and zero-moment of wave spectrum. The model has been calibrated using small scale experiments conducted at the University of Naples and has been validated on data from large scale tests performed at the Grosser WellenKanal (GWK) of Hannover, Germany. A comparison has been done with Composite Weibull Distribution (CWD) proposed by Battjes and Groenendijk (2000). The model seemed to be slightly more accurate in predicting commonly used wave height statistics, except for those with very low exceedence level within the surf zone

WAVE HEIGHTS DISTRIBUTION IN THE SURF ZONE: ANALYSIS OF EXPERIMENTAL DATA

BUCCINO, MARIANO;CALABRESE, MARIO
2002

Abstract

A semi-empirical model is developed for prediction of wave heights pdf in shallow waters. It assumes that a single Weibull distribution holds both in shoaling waters and in the surf zone. Pdf parameters have been linked to water depth and zero-moment of wave spectrum. The model has been calibrated using small scale experiments conducted at the University of Naples and has been validated on data from large scale tests performed at the Grosser WellenKanal (GWK) of Hannover, Germany. A comparison has been done with Composite Weibull Distribution (CWD) proposed by Battjes and Groenendijk (2000). The model seemed to be slightly more accurate in predicting commonly used wave height statistics, except for those with very low exceedence level within the surf zone
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11588/181096
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